keltik wrote:okay now this is where i get a bit flustered:
1.) why the hell do i need more than 2 putters? (1 for "driving" and 1 for putting)
why not use the mid range for upshots
2.) why do people need so many copies of their midrange......why not just use one straight flying midrange and learn how to make touch shots and (an)hyzers with the one disc?
the one pig driver i understand and for the most part practice
same with distance but then why do i need copies of my "control" driver......why not use the same principle as stated for mids
and max D i can see just using one
i guess i'm trying to push überminimalism.....but still give it a thought
You're right about the best way to learn. Forcing flights you wouldn't normally expect out of discs will teach you a lot. However, once you have a decent set of skills there is a benefit to adding discs.
For putters, many have found that different weights have different strengths. A light weight (165-168g) putter carries a bit better on putts than a heavier putter, extending your range a bit, a mid weight (168-172g) is good for approaches as it fights winds a bit better and has some extra carry, but not so much that it makes range control difficult (which can be a small issue with lighter putters), and it's just easier to control heavy putters for drives. If you give yourself a new and beat driving putteryou end up with 4 different putters. Midranges are too difficult to control turn, fade and range for approach shots. It's just not a good disc choice for a majority of approaches.
For mids and control drivers it's partially about ease of flight manipulation and partially about fade. The easiest way to keep a Roc or Gazelle from fading is to throw a beat one. The easiest way to get a Roc or Gazelle to turn more is to throw a beat one. It's possible to do some of that stuff with just one (and as you pointed out, a good way to learn), but it gets to where it's not really worth making things harder than they need to be. Easier shots are more consistant.
For distance drivers I see it as more of a wind thing. If you're looking for max distance you don't have as many flight shaping options as you do with control drivers, so you have to rely on beatness to help you get the lines you want in the wind conditions you're given. Getting a new, fast disc to turn over in a tailwind is hard. Having a beat version that's kind of flippy in the calm can help a ton.