Critique My Bag

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Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:52 am

Drivers:
Star XCaliber 172 Main Driver
Force 173
Star Max 175
Star Destroyer 170
Champ Orc 162
Champ Beast 171

Mids:
MRX 168
FLX Drone 176
Star Coyote 175

Putters:
SS Wizard 175
E Worlock 168

X Cal is usually my max D Driver. I throw forehand on long drives, backhand on shorter drives below 270. Have Rhuematoid Arthritis so power can be limited. I max about 350-360 on my forehand drives, and about 270-280 on backhand, altho those are getting longer.
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Postby JR » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:56 am

Your driver selection is mostly very overstable. Orc is ok at you power FH but a bit much BH. Beast is notoriously susceptible to OAT and the rest of your many and probably partially overlapping overstable discs are really OAT resistent. I'd think those are for FH and Beast and possible Orc for BH.
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Postby Seneca_22 » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:04 pm

Yeah, my Orc and Beast are mostly my backhand discs. I can get a good S curve on my Orc. My Beast is my straight disc for backhand drives and long ups. If I need overstable for backhand, my Destroyer is my BH/FH disc.

Forehand straight is my Destroyer
My force has be thrown at a killer Anni angle so I use it to get around things
XCal needs a little anni, but will hold the line before coming back hard right
My Max seems to work great in heavy wind, and I use it for shorter drives less than 340, but more than my backhand range.

Sorry, what do your abbreviations mean?
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Postby JR » Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:08 am

Forehand, backhand, off axis torque. The last one you really want to know inside and out to avoid it. Only throwing nose up is gonna hurt your game more. There's plenty written about it. Searching gives goldmines of quality and quantity of info.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:57 pm

Ok, what is off axis torque? Also, I try not to throw any nose up, unless I need to get up and over something with a backwards fade. I'm getting more snap on my BH. Enough that I can throw my beast hyzer and have it flatten out and even turn a little, hold the line, then come back.

You say that the Orc may be a little much for BH at my power. Any other suggestions for a S curve disc for me? That's mainly what I use the orc for, or for shorter left turn holes
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby JR » Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:24 am

Seneca_22 wrote:Ok, what is off axis torque? Also, I try not to throw any nose up, unless I need to get up and over something with a backwards fade. I'm getting more snap on my BH. Enough that I can throw my beast hyzer and have it flatten out and even turn a little, hold the line, then come back.

You say that the Orc may be a little much for BH at my power. Any other suggestions for a S curve disc for me? That's mainly what I use the orc for, or for shorter left turn holes


I've thrown 5 grams heavier Orc and at your backhand distance it'd be a clear indicator of off axis torque if you put more than a little hyzer on it. But at your weight I don't know.

Anything that makes the disc spin on any other axis than around the center is caused by form flaws termed off axis torque I think around here. Though the term actually describes how the disc behaves. There are several causes to OAT. Telegraphing the shot is one thing to read and I think there was something about that on the articles section and it's described in several threads. Still should be easier to find than OAT.

Pushing wrist so far down that the disc isn't in line with the bones in your forearm is a culprit to OAT. As well as the wrist collapsing upwards late in the throw. Wrist rolling either way especially clockwise can kill you. Blake has written that you can lose up to 30 % of power with OAT. I don't doubt that. You can also roll other joints than wrist but wrist is the major culprit. Wrist behaves a lot differently at full power compared to 80 % or less. It's much more difficult to keep wrist oriented properly than other parts of the arm. But as I said there's a lot more detailed theoretical and application information sprinkled around in older threads. But these initial bits should keep you occupied for a long time. That's not a promise that's a threat based on how often the uglies keep creeping back. No ladies I'm not talking of you.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby MR. WICK » Wed Oct 15, 2008 1:03 pm

You need some slower drivers in there. Everything you have is wicked fast. Teebird, leopard, XL, something like that. Pick one of those putters and use it a different stages of wear. I would do the same for your mid ranges as well. Cut down the molds you have wherever you can.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:28 pm

What are slower discs good for? My mentor got me hooked on all these fast discs, but never really explained to me why I might need a slower disc, so I don't have any.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby mark12b » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:00 pm

with slow plastic it's easier to make the disc land exactly where you want, fly on the line you're shooting for, etc. -- overall more controllable. and the slower a disc flies the closer it will stay to the fairway if it kicks off a tree.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby MR. WICK » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:41 am

mark12b wrote:with slow plastic it's easier to make the disc land exactly where you want, fly on the line you're shooting for, etc. -- overall more controllable. and the slower a disc flies the closer it will stay to the fairway if it kicks off a tree.

Thats a good explanation. So much easier to shape a line and they go ALMOST as far as the fast stuff. Use them where accuracy is important. I've always used the theory that the slowest disc you can get there with is what you should use most of the time.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:10 am

I can't say that I have any trouble placing my discs where I want them. They're not pinpoint every single time, but I do get them where I want to go. Maybe it's because of my low power? What is a good overstable slow driver? I turn over a destroyer, even a little on my XCal. Maybe a max weight Tee Bird?
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby MR. WICK » Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:41 am

Are you turning them over on your forehand shot or backhand? For your 270 power range backhand a good overstable slower driver might be a banshee, whippet, exp1, or even a firebird or predator if you want something really overstable for the forehand.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby dgdave » Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:43 am

If you're flipping XC's and they aren't beat, that's some form issues.

I'm an Okie, where the wind comes rollin down the plains, and they don't flip down here in the 30+ mph winds. They just go straight. This is with 400+ ft throws.

Get a Teebird or Gazelle and learn to work the wind
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:33 am

TeamTollandDG wrote:Are you turning them over on your forehand shot or backhand? For your 270 power range backhand a good overstable slower driver might be a banshee, whippet, exp1, or even a firebird or predator if you want something really overstable for the forehand.


I'm talking forehand since that's where all my distance is. That's in the 340-360 range.

As for flipping a XC, I take back what I said, I'm not flipping them. That would mean I throw them hyzer and they flip, right? They just hold the ever so slight Anni line I put on them for a while, where as I can throw Destroyers flat or slight hyzer and they will start to dive to the left on me.
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Re: Critique My Bag

Postby Seneca_22 » Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:01 pm

Okay, bag is a little different now. Coyote is gone because I can do the same things with my Wizards. MRX is out, just hardly ever used. Crystal Avenger SS is in and has a good understable line for me. Comes out when I want, holds the turn when I want, I really like it, and it's teaching me more about my release.
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