Aaron_D

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Aaron_D

Postby Aaron_D » Fri May 02, 2008 5:20 pm

New vid today of several drives all with max weight OLF's-Q, S and M.

Lemme know what you all think. I was concentrating on OAT elimination, brining the disc through slightly earlier and getting my left lower half around more/dragging my off foot (which I pretty much failed to do). I was only in the field for like 30 minutes because I ran out of camera battery. I wasnt in the baseball field but I would guestimate these were in the 380-430 range. The one turnover over the treeline glided out for a full D flight line and probably went farther.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mh-_TZA5r7c
My Drive-> http://www.youtube.com/user/CpJ123?feature=mhw5#p/u/0/OWX_jHYB4bg

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Postby JR » Fri May 02, 2008 5:42 pm

Notice how your plant step pivot kicks up dirt from the front and right of the foot in the first throw and in another throw the left of rear of the foot does the same. I don't know how much that dirt allows your shoe to sink in but for this particular surface you're too flat footed.

You seem to vary where your plant step lands sideways relative to the line you're moving towards. You seem to start a lot from the right rear and curving the steps in an arc moving left to right starting the x step way left of the target. What's the goal? Combination of a curved hopping shuffle/ x step (borderline which is it really because the crossing of the legs is very minor?) combined with varying planting position sideways and plant step pivot dragging parts of the foot in the ground tilt your body from the ground up to different positions but always making you jump to the right in the end. That comes about by not allowing the left leg pivot around the right in an arc. It holds the left leg closer to the center of gravity but what does it matter at this point in the throw? What it does it seems to me is that your balance varies even before the release of the disc.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby Bradley Walker » Fri May 02, 2008 5:57 pm

Aaron!!! Awesome!!!

Much improved!!!

You elbow lead is way better. You lead foot is better. Your hat is still ugly...

In slow motion is almost looks like you are a bit LATE on you hit (the first white disc especially). You seem to be so concentrated on finish SO MUCH that you do not kill the disc into the hit. I would like to see you move you acceleration to a spot about a foot sooner, just for grins...try to drive the forearm INTO the hit as well as pull it OUT of the hit. You mostly pull out. Nearly 75%. I do something similar when I cannot throw with a finish.

Other than that, I cannot see how you are not throwing 500' now.. You have the strength and speed. A lot more than me!!!
"The reasonable man adapts himself to his environment. The unreasonable man adapts his environment to himself, therefore all progress is made by unreasonable men."
-George Bernard Shaw
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Postby Jager » Fri May 02, 2008 7:20 pm

Drive for show, putt for $$$.
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Postby Aaron_D » Fri May 02, 2008 7:36 pm

aint that the truth.

im really working hard on my putting and will have a video of that soon.

driving for show is still fun as a mother.
My Drive-> http://www.youtube.com/user/CpJ123?feature=mhw5#p/u/0/OWX_jHYB4bg

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Postby black udder » Fri May 02, 2008 9:14 pm

Jager wrote:Drive for show, putt for $$$.


Such a BS slogan. If you can park every drive, you don't have to be a good putter. Making the assumption that you can't park every drive is just as bad as the assumption that if you're a good putter you'll make every putt.

The reason everybody posts drive analysis is because driving is more complex than putting. Thus, it requires more work.

The only thing I can think of why you're not going 500' is the finer timings. Perhaps you're coming in or out of the hit too fast and not getting the 100% smash factor.

I'd like to see some hyzer drives or hyzer flips that require more than just a touch of hyzer. See how those drives look.

Wish I could help some, but you're beyond what I can constructively comment on.
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Postby DELETED » Sat May 03, 2008 12:24 am

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Postby Aaron_D » Sat May 03, 2008 12:36 am

they came T O D A Y. You are the man! Didnt get a chance to toss them around but they are already in my bag :)
My Drive-> http://www.youtube.com/user/CpJ123?feature=mhw5#p/u/0/OWX_jHYB4bg

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Postby Blake_T » Sat May 03, 2008 1:42 am

aaron:

throws 3, 5, and 6 are the best, with 3 and 5 being better than 6, but 6 being better than the rest. 4 was your worst throw followed by 8 and then 7. 1 and 2 were decent.... you are close on them but they leave a bit early. 2 was probably better than 1.

5 leaves your hand like an f'n rocket with a quick ride to a high apex. your trajectory was still a line drive so you can see what adding force does. those are the only throws where it doesn't appear the disc leaves early.

something to notice:
you have a very uneven follow-through. a way to remedy this is to pick a point along the target line (or bank if you want it to flip and ride) where you want to land with your left foot. as you follow through step to that point. 3 you definitely forced over with your follow through (read as: body english). 8 was rather wild.

basically, you need to slow the f down and work on feeling the power zone. still seems like you are winging through it. power focus was definitely better (im guessing you were probably hitting your first 2/3 flight lines better than usual) but you are missing it... as brad said by not accelerating through the power zone (you accelerate late) but you still aren't getting around on the disc (it's still slipping).

don't try to toe drag, your MCL and patella will thank you.

i want you to try something weird. set your pivot foot down with toes pointed like 110-120 degrees from the target and push off your left foot to drive your right hip open (you will have a 2-stage pivot, first to something more like 20-30 degrees, then another when you hit max extension).

this may calm your legs down a bit.

basically, your disc is leaving 6-10" early and before your hand reaches 12 o'clock in front of the disc. ideally, you will want your hand more at like 1 o'clock as this means you extended your wrist. it should feel like you just grip-locked one like 60' farther than your normal shot but it goes straight instead.
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Postby EBK357 » Mon May 05, 2008 2:20 pm

Those were some f_ing bombs. really nice. looks like the hat stayed put aswell
F a sig!
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Postby Beetard » Thu May 08, 2008 6:47 pm

Aaron, What happens when you try to throw with a power grip?

I was throwing fork grip for a while, but it was giving me blisters on my index finger and cutting into the second joint of my middle finger.

When I got fed up with taping and learned to power grip, my throws got a little longer, but the disc still slips instead of rips most of the time.

For a second, I had a tye dye orc that someone gave me. Nice and gummy. I could really dig my fingers into it and when I got a solid rip, it was going 30 or 40 feet extra. I lost the disc like a dumbass tho.

I just read about the thumb being forwad enough, I'll see if that helps tommorow.

Grip is one of my problem areas, and it seems like it may be the only thing you've got left to perfect. I woudn't be surprised to hear about you flinging 550 in the not so distant future.
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Postby Aaron_D » Fri May 09, 2008 7:36 am

those all sounds like grip issues. It took me a long time to settle on the climo grip, but I feel it gives me a better index release and minimizes oat.
My Drive-> http://www.youtube.com/user/CpJ123?feature=mhw5#p/u/0/OWX_jHYB4bg

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Postby Beetard » Sat May 10, 2008 2:05 pm

Less OAT with the Climo grip. Tru dat. Having your hand farther under the disc instead of just on the rim means that if your wrist angle is a little off, the disc isn't on as much of an angle as it would be with the power grip. Kind of like aiming a pistol vs a rifle. If the bead is a little off of the target, you're gonna miss by more with the pistol.

I guess someone who is crankin' a disc as hard as you can't afford very much OAT or it will be turnover city.
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Postby JR » Sun May 11, 2008 12:42 am

Beetard wrote:Less OAT with the Climo grip. Tru dat. Having your hand farther under the disc instead of just on the rim means that if your wrist angle is a little off, the disc isn't on as much of an angle as it would be with the power grip. Kind of like aiming a pistol vs a rifle. If the bead is a little off of the target, you're gonna miss by more with the pistol.

I guess someone who is crankin' a disc as hard as you can't afford very much OAT or it will be turnover city.


Skin grows harder and thicker with use. I have a hard thick patch of skin on the side of my middle finger near the tip from discin'. It takes a while for the body or skin to adjust to changes. It'll come in some months of regular practice on fields.

You're so right about high power (often leading to bad form) being very sensitive to OAT. Especially if you have a case of fast speed low spin and a high speed understable disc especially prone to being flipped over by OAT. Beasts are notorious for being flipped by OAT in the slightest of amounts. Winds flip them too.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby Seanzerelli » Wed May 21, 2008 12:15 am

I didn't read all of the posts, but there has to be something to do about your follow through. that's probably your biggest problem if I could say anything. It just looks painful, don't you have to ice your arm if you play too many days in a row? I can't see you throwing that many drives with that kind of follow through. No offense or anything, it's just uncomfortable to watch heh.
Last edited by Seanzerelli on Wed May 21, 2008 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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