Most Accurate Lines in Wind

[krik72]

So I have been playing in a lot of wind recently and Ive been wondering about the most accurate way to handle different wind situations when you are within your golf D with various lines and adjustments. Just assume there is no ceiling and tons of left to right play on the fairway. What should be the most accurate default shot in these spots? Are there any adjustments you tend to make in these situations?

1. Right to left wind.
a. Approaches (under 250'): Normally I would be throwing a spike hyzer here as Blake recommends but the R-L wind makes it very hard to place this shot accurately.

b. Drives (for me about 330' max golf D): Should I still be throwing a flat shot that fades? Should I be making adjustments to make the fade more predictable?

2. Left to right.
-Drives near my max golf D (330' for me): Throwing a normal flat shot that fades I lose a lot of distance with this wind. The two options I have been trying out is adding some anhyzer to my TeeBird so that it rides the wind for a short period, and the second was throwing a flex shot with a Roc and really riding the wind (both will go about the same distance). Good ideas? Should I be considering other options?

3. Headwind
-Driving: I guess this is more a question of disc selection, basically Im wondering do you choose a very fast overstable disc that will never flip on you or do you try and gauge the amount of hyzer to put on something like a TeeBird perhaps risking a turnover if you misjudge it? I have a 173 Star TeeBird (needs a good amount of hyzer sometimes flips), a 172 Champ Starfire (very occasionally flips) and a 175 CE Boss (never flips).

edit: Assume RHBH

[Mike C]

Do you throw RHBH or some other style / hand? I throw RHBH.

Right to left wind

Approach: I will generally throw my Wizard flat and compensate in my line for a bit of extra fade.

Drives: I'll throw flat and aim to get my driver to turn a little, then have it fade back. Aiming to not turn it over too much, and compensating for the extra fade.


Left to Right: I throw with extra hyzer so that I get a hyzer flip line, but I keep in mind not to snap the disc hard enough to make it flip up past flat. Turnover shots with L to R wind can be a pain to accurately judge for me.


Headwind: I go with throwing my normal disc with extra hyzer in 95% of the headwinds I've encountered. I usually carry a Predator that I might pull out if there's a strong headwind and I need a strong hyzer finish on a long drive, but it's very rare I ever BH the Pred (It's there mainly for OH shots and FH rollers). I find after learning how much hyzer my discs need in headwinds they're not difficult to predict.

[Monocacy]

1. Right to left wind.
a. Approaches (under 250'): Normally I would be throwing a spike hyzer here as Blake recommends but the R-L wind makes it very hard to place this shot accurately.

Forehand hyzers work well here because you avoid exposing the underside of the disc to the wind. Keep it low and aim a little right. Same principle works for longer drives, too.

[krik72]

Ah yes sorry this I meant this for RHBH.

[StumperTX]

So I have been playing in a lot of wind recently and Ive been wondering about the most accurate way to handle different wind situations when you are within your golf D with various lines and adjustments. Just assume there is no ceiling and tons of left to right play on the fairway. What should be the most accurate default shot in these spots? Are there any adjustments you tend to make in these situations?

1. Right to left wind.
a. Approaches (under 250'): Normally I would be throwing a spike hyzer here as Blake recommends but the R-L wind makes it very hard to place this shot accurately.

b. Drives (for me about 330' max golf D): Should I still be throwing a flat shot that fades? Should I be making adjustments to make the fade more predictable?

2. Left to right.
-Drives near my max golf D (330' for me): Throwing a normal flat shot that fades I lose a lot of distance with this wind. The two options I have been trying out is adding some anhyzer to my TeeBird so that it rides the wind for a short period, and the second was throwing a flex shot with a Roc and really riding the wind (both will go about the same distance). Good ideas? Should I be considering other options?

3. Headwind
-Driving: I guess this is more a question of disc selection, basically Im wondering do you choose a very fast overstable disc that will never flip on you or do you try and gauge the amount of hyzer to put on something like a TeeBird perhaps risking a turnover if you misjudge it? I have a 173 Star TeeBird (needs a good amount of hyzer sometimes flips), a 172 Champ Starfire (very occasionally flips) and a 175 CE Boss (never flips).

edit: Assume RHBH

For headwind Drives, i'd much rather carry a driver a few notches up in stability then try to "kentucy windage" my release angle. If it's windy enough that you're flipping an XXX, you should probably stop playing now, that tornado is awfully close.

[Dogma]

1. Right to left wind.

Forehand hyzers work well here because you avoid exposing the underside of the disc to the wind.

x2

[rehder]

So I have been playing in a lot of wind recently and Ive been wondering about the most accurate way to handle different wind situations when you are within your golf D with various lines and adjustments. Just assume there is no ceiling and tons of left to right play on the fairway. What should be the most accurate default shot in these spots? Are there any adjustments you tend to make in these situations?

1. Right to left wind.
a. Approaches (under 250'): Normally I would be throwing a spike hyzer here as Blake recommends but the R-L wind makes it very hard to place this shot accurately.

b. Drives (for me about 330' max golf D): Should I still be throwing a flat shot that fades? Should I be making adjustments to make the fade more predictable?

2. Left to right.
-Drives near my max golf D (330' for me): Throwing a normal flat shot that fades I lose a lot of distance with this wind. The two options I have been trying out is adding some anhyzer to my TeeBird so that it rides the wind for a short period, and the second was throwing a flex shot with a Roc and really riding the wind (both will go about the same distance). Good ideas? Should I be considering other options?

3. Headwind
-Driving: I guess this is more a question of disc selection, basically Im wondering do you choose a very fast overstable disc that will never flip on you or do you try and gauge the amount of hyzer to put on something like a TeeBird perhaps risking a turnover if you misjudge it? I have a 173 Star TeeBird (needs a good amount of hyzer sometimes flips), a 172 Champ Starfire (very occasionally flips) and a 175 CE Boss (never flips).

edit: Assume RHBH

1a) With a very overstable disc and a spike hyzer, the wind has to be pretty substantial before it moves my line (much) further out
1b) I cant remember when I have faced a direct sidewind for this shot, its often either with more or less head- or tail-wind. And for drives this matters more IMHO. For slight HW, I would do the hyzerflip to flat shot and keep it low and probably throw it a little more right than usual. For slight tailwind its a hyzer line, and the more it comes from the back the wider I throw it.

2) Depends what you want to do, but if I understand it correctly you are looking for a distance shot with no terrain constraints. And in this case I would reccommend the flightpath you describe for the roc-throw, if accuracy is key I would revert to flip-flat line drive.

3) I want to throw something that is stable and doesnt turn over, but I almost never throw with a flat release, I prefer to almost always throw with varying amounts of hyzer, I find this to be much safer than trying to execute a flat release that accidentally gets a couple of degrees of anhyzer on it, and hence turns over. So choice of line is flip-flat line drive. IMHO the safest discs are Firebird and Preds (or other discs that are very stable regardless of speed), for more distance Ive been getting good results with domey Z forces, though you can probably also do alright with stable bosses or excalibers (And other freak-runs of certain discs.)