Disc speeds

[turso]

The man dangling from a ledge is a great analogy, Chris. It's funny, because when I throw Rocs 350'+ it means I should be able to throw Nukes 460'+ but when I hit a field I'll hit 85% or better of my roc throws but I'm lucky if I can get a single hit in 10 tries on a Nuke.

As for talk about Eagles, remember there's both Eagle X's and Eagle L's floating around. EL's are like a faster Polaris LS or slower Beast and fly pretty much the same in both DX and Champ plastic. EX's are a different animal completely. In DX they are throwable with 325' of power. In Star they need more like 360'+ of power. In Champ they need more like 380'+ of power on em to be able to work em at all. In a perfect world, people would be able to throw 390'+ consistently before grabbing an EX in premium plastic.

I have the very same problem with anything wider rimmed than a PD really, not getting the hit. When my form is in shape(ie. I've been playing actively) I have no trouble reaching 430' with a PD on a straight line, but RARELY go over 460' with anything wide rimmed be it blizzard or near max weight. Is it just a grip power problem? Can it be fixed by altering grip, or possibly just doing strengthening exercises?

Or could it be that my timing's a little off all the time, and it starts showing with the widest rims in form of slippage?

[Blake_T]

I started off playing disc golf by finding the fastest discs I could and throwing them. 2 years later, I couldn't understand why I couldn't throw a fairway/mid/putter on a line without it turning into a roller. It was a huge setback to where I am know, and my first rule whenever I take someone new out to play is to give them a buzz to start.

The problem with starting with the fast discs is you will be teaching yourself to wrist roll all your shots. The only way you can throw those discs for any distance when you start out is to put extreme amounts of angle into your starting throw. But if you disc down and focus on throwing slower discs, you will teach yourself to release them flat. Once you have learned to throw flat, it is much easier to learn how to make every disc fly the way you want it. But if you never learn to throw flat, you will never learn how to really manipulate all your discs, all you will learn is "This disc is perfect for short dog leg holes, all it does it bend really hard" "This disc is really over stable to the point I can throw it at a 30% anny and it turns for a nice 300' S-cure." or "This disc isn't overstable enough, it just turns into a roller"

This is a common story nowadays. ThIs kind of story started in the crush/orc generation of drivers and has gotten worse since then.

Turso: it's a leverage/ergonomics thing. My max width = valk (1.9 cm) if i want to hit it with my standard grip, but honestly, my consistency takes a sharp dive after about 1.6cm. Grip mods will help to an extent, but there are some rims that just won't grip well unless you have gigantor hands.

[turso]

Yeah, feared as much. I guess I "just" need to start throwing PDs to 500', back to practice field...

[JR]

Mikey because it is a good thing to have the same disc in various states of beatness for more versatility and the DX needs the least power i'd get a DX Eagle X. Stars have lemons in them so starting off with one would be equivalent to getting the fastest disc you can get but only shorter. So no point in risking that. If you get a Star later check out the height of the outer edge from a table and if you see variations between individual discs don't get the one that has the edge highest because that will be the beefiest.

Turso my index finger middle section is Teebird wide so to get any leverage i'd need to drop to Leopards And that ain't a thin disc so the benefits are even worse. Because Viper is the next speed down and then there's little usable stuff in speed 5 i'm not served well by the industry. Kite maybe but man that is tall and the softness of the flight plate forces the thumb fairly close to the edge of the disc increasing slipping danger.

[MikeyDays]

I don't like DX plastic. Am I just being picky and don't know what Im talking about? Im tempted to get star or champion.

[NoLifeLeft]

Switch to Champ and Star fairways when you start saying "I wish my fairways would stop going so far". Seriously, I was using DX fairways for a long time based on the advice on this site and they are great. Once my golfable max distance hit about 380'-400' I switched back to premium plastic fairway drivers because the lost glide put them perfectly between my distance discs and my mids. If I get a good yank on a DX Eagle X or TeeBird now I could unintentionally send it a lot farther than I need. If you insist on having a premium plastic fairway driver, you need to pick a different mold that has a lower power requirement. Premium Eagles and TBs are great discs if you have power to spare but they make terrible learning tools.

[Blake_T]

I don't like DX plastic. Am I just being picky and don't know what Im talking about? Im tempted to get star or champion.

Disc golf from 1960-1995 only had dx as the option. Midgrade appeared in 1995. Premium plastic didnt come out until 2000-01.

"old school" players know how to cycle plastic to extend its lifespan. We also prefer to throw broken in plastic to new plastic since it flies farther and has less fade. It also grips better and grip = power.

My line about it is that it's a flying contest and not a durability contest, but i also rarely hit things within 200' of the teepad.

The tossup is this:
Dx eagle x hss -1, lss +3
Champ eagle x hss -0.25, lss +3.75
Star eagle x hss -0.5 +3.5

I prefer to beat eagles in until they're hss -1.25-1.5, lss 2.5 or so. With dx that takes me 2-4 weeks on a cycle and they stay that way for 3-4 months. Champ that's like 6-12 months of throwing 1 to get it there.

[JR]

Switch to Champ and Star fairways when you start saying "I wish my fairways would stop going so far". Seriously, I was using DX fairways for a long time based on the advice on this site and they are great. Once my golfable max distance hit about 380'-400' I switched back to premium plastic fairway drivers because the lost glide put them perfectly between my distance discs and my mids. If I get a good yank on a DX Eagle X or TeeBird now I could unintentionally send it a lot farther than I need. If you insist on having a premium plastic fairway driver, you need to pick a different mold that has a lower power requirement. Premium Eagles and TBs are great discs if you have power to spare but they make terrible learning tools.

A DX Gazelle is pretty durable because it flies so slowly and is pretty durable structurally and is quite workable and starts out fairly hard fading and beats n to straight to understable fairly slowly.