Disc Tuning

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Postby geoloseth » Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:01 pm

I would definitely take it easy tuning a pro plastic disc. They have a very low threshold for plastic deformation. If you have to tune it I wouldn't bend your knuckles past 45 degrees and you may find that once you tune it understable that youll have to tune it stable to get the desired effect.
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Postby Bruce » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:50 am

Well I didn't read those comments until after I'd done it... Luckily I had taken it easy anyway, and it's tuned an absolute treat! :D

I couldn't believe the difference in the disc, it went from being a stable pig to a sweet max-D driver.

Is this effective on DX plastic? Just thinking about if I was to lose my beaten in Valk, could I tune a new one straight into that roller slot?
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Postby geoloseth » Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:53 am

You can tune a dx disc, but you'll have to take it even easier than you did for the pro. The most noticable thing will be a wavy pattern that will develop on the rim. I'm not sure however if that will really adversly affect the flight.
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Postby JR » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:19 pm

geoloseth wrote:You can tune a dx disc, but you'll have to take it even easier than you did for the pro. The most noticable thing will be a wavy pattern that will develop on the rim. I'm not sure however if that will really adversly affect the flight.


Those waves occur naturally from tree hits and the more you have them the understabler the disc gets as the waves are predominantly downward bends.

Sorry to go OT but removal of flashing goes hand in hand with tuning in modifications you can do to discs and this is even PDGA approved :-)

Today I removed flashing from 150 Star TB, 166 Star Eagle and 167 Star TL. Eagle got only a bit less HSS but seemed to fly faster and fade less. This is remarkable if indeed true. Equal change in stability in different speeds or even more understabler in the low speed department change than in high speeds. I thought I likes Eagle X with the flashing a lot. Boy was I wrong about the disc because without the flashing this baby rocks my socks off!!!

I didn't notice that much of a difference in the TB. Won't say at all but the differences were close to detection threshold and I can't be sure if it was my throwing or the removal of the flashing that was the cause of the miniscule differences in stability towards understable. The least change I've noticed ever.

Got too few throws with the TL but this one flies oddly to say the least. I wasn't happy at all. Except for anhyzer work. I need to relearn this disc because it changed fro a TB fly alike to something odd that I've never witnessed before. It gradually flipped to flat whilst rising for the duration of the flip to very much higher than the nose angle and hyzer angle/speed combination does for other discs or the same disc with the flashing. More comments later after I've learned the disc.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby Bradley Walker » Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:53 pm

Yes.
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Postby JR » Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:17 am

Bradley Walker wrote:Yes.


If I had to guess what Bradley most likes then it's the flashingless Star Eagle X. Not having thrown a DX Eagle X (gots to get) I'd think it's even sweeter.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby Bruce » Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:00 am

geoloseth wrote:You can tune a dx disc, but you'll have to take it even easier than you did for the pro. The most noticable thing will be a wavy pattern that will develop on the rim. I'm not sure however if that will really adversly affect the flight.


So to clarify for anyone else reading this thread, tuning Innova plastic, from 'Careful' to 'Go nuts'

DX
Pro
Star
Champ

That seem right?
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Postby Bradley Walker » Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:33 am

Bruce wrote:
geoloseth wrote:You can tune a dx disc, but you'll have to take it even easier than you did for the pro. The most noticable thing will be a wavy pattern that will develop on the rim. I'm not sure however if that will really adversly affect the flight.


So to clarify for anyone else reading this thread, tuning Innova plastic, from 'Careful' to 'Go nuts'

DX
Pro
Star
Champ

That seem right?


Star is the most pliable, even more than Champ.
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Postby Bradley Walker » Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:35 am

JR wrote:
Bradley Walker wrote:Yes.


If I had to guess what Bradley most likes then it's the flashingless Star Eagle X. /quote]

Yes....and the Star Teebird.

I do not use flash anymore on any disc on principle.
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Postby JR » Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:35 am

Bradley Walker wrote:
JR wrote:
Bradley Walker wrote:Yes.


If I had to guess what Bradley most likes then it's the flashingless Star Eagle X. /quote]

Yes....and the Star Teebird.

I do not use flash anymore on any disc on principle.


I was appalled by the heavy headwinds today on the field where driving is only allowed in one direction. Everyone had discs turn over bad. This is one case where removing the flashing wasn't helpful. On the other hand not only did the 150 flashingless Star TB flip bad but 166 DX wasn't that much better.

As usual the wind wasn't constant and gusted for impossible compensations. Man did the discs soar high in headwinds. The wind kicked up walls of fine dirt from a dirt road. Pollum flew at constant altitude and fast sideways. During 15 minutes winds came from each direction. Mostly headwinds before and after. Good training. New mold RI was the best wind handler I had with me and even that wasn't enough in SRP 169. Guess I need to take a Pred with me every time no matter how tired I am and regardless of how many discs I need to try. Relearning each disc from stand still throws is a chore.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby geoloseth » Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:48 am

None of those discs that you mentioned should be thrown into a full headwind even when tuned. Like I said before, if you want to tune a good head wind driver you have to start with something that is better suited for headwinds. I went andplayed the other day with constant wind of about 25mph and guts up to who knows how much just to get some practice with wind. When I threw into a headwind the only discs that performed reasonably as expected were my tuned teerexes and tuned max. And even those required alot of hyzer and low shots to keep from lifting and turning completely over. Noatter how much you tune a disc you still have to use common sense in severe conditions.
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Postby JR » Sat Jun 07, 2008 1:12 pm

geoloseth wrote:None of those discs that you mentioned should be thrown into a full headwind even when tuned. Like I said before, if you want to tune a good head wind driver you have to start with something that is better suited for headwinds. I went andplayed the other day with constant wind of about 25mph and guts up to who knows how much just to get some practice with wind. When I threw into a headwind the only discs that performed reasonably as expected were my tuned teerexes and tuned max. And even those required alot of hyzer and low shots to keep from lifting and turning completely over. Noatter how much you tune a disc you still have to use common sense in severe conditions.


You gotta work with what you carry :-) I thought Pred was too much for me throwing from stand still. I may stand corrected because previously I thought the new mold RI is Pred light. Maybe to moderate headwinds but not high winds. A Max with flashing untuned turns on me in heavy headwinds.
Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.
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Postby Bradley Walker » Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:57 pm

My Teerex's have reached unflippable status.

If thrown from a 30 degree hyser they cannot be flipped not matter how much wind is present. They will flatten and burn into the wind.

My Maxes will now hold the angle I set, not matter the wind.

It appears that Dave is a very good designer, but molding variation and density at various regions of the country are subtle differences that have to be dealt with no matter what.
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Postby geoloseth » Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:24 pm

I was just wondering if anyone had any luck with tuning midrange discs.
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Postby Bradley Walker » Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:12 am

geoloseth wrote:I was just wondering if anyone had any luck with tuning midrange discs.


Yes.
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