JR wrote:Even from stand still you should turn to face the target when the disc leaves your fingers.
You've improved a bit from the last time with the timing of the hard arm pull but it's still a mirror image of what it should be. Meaning you start to accelerate the arm when a little motion from the maximum reach back position has been made. When you should twist your hips and push harder with the left leg to get around and more weight forward and only as you're nearing chest squared with the target should the arm really start to move.
I've thought of late acceleration lately like this in pre throw routine with improving results: Plant, move the elbow to point at the target slowly with loose muscles and a tight angle in the elbow at the end of this motion before the legs and hips start to use full power. The idea is to get the elbow bent as much as possible pointing at the target while the chest stays at 90 degrees to the left of the target. This happens as you move the upper arm straight from shoulder towards target. Only after the upper arm can't get closer to the target does the leg push get hard and really yank the hips to face the target at very quick angle change rate. Think of it like this: maximum rotation in degrees in minimum amount of time equals most rotational force. Which is what good snap and spin on the disc demands. Plus using your arm as a lever.
In effect what happens is that your torso changes direction by 90 degrees simultaneously with the maximum power from legs and hips coinciding with the elbow chop. This means that the largest muscle groups are firing fairly simultaneously at highest possible acceleration rate. Blake likes to preach about force which is mass times acceleration. Unless you gain weight you need to add acceleration. If you are using 10 % power everywhere up to chest 90 degrees left of the target elbow as close to the target what's left is a short time to get to full power meaning high acceleration. In fact too long a time with less than best possible acceleration.
What you need is to be smooth at the beginning of the acceleration of the elbow chop. If you yank as fast as possible with muscles initially loose you're more than likely to twist your wrist into odd angles. Like in your video you started with hyzers and flat angles and ended up with anhyzers as the session went on in the reach back position. The smooth area of the elbow chop should be gone as the speed and muscle tension gets up by the time the front of the disc is about 8" short of the arm being straight and the disc releasing. After that you really should start accelerating hard. This means that you're still accelerating after the disc has released unless you've got immense muscles made of twitch cells. All of which means great spin on the disc if you can extend the wrist and fingers while holding on to the disc.
In the video you start your routine by extending the arm 90 degrees left of the target. Check out what happens if you start toes in the same direction with upper body facing as close to the target as you can so that you gain more distance and speed in which to accelerate to the reach back position to plyometrically load your torso and don't stop in the reach back but as you reach the farthest point back you immediately start the pull. When you're in the beginning memorizing the hyzer angle initially try to keep that as a reference because you want the same angle to occur in the air initially after the release. If there's a mismatch you need to track the cause and eliminate it. Also looking at the target pre throw helps you to aim and trying to get the look at the same spot you're aiming at when you come from the reach back again facing the target should help some in aiming.
Acceleration late in the throw and clearing the hips to face the target also helps in eliminating or at least reducing the spraying you're suffering from. It's not only the close to the chest arm pull that helps here. To make the turning towards the target with the torso easier starting with the right leg planted to the right of the left looking from behind the tee towards the basket helps immensely. That's conducive to flat or hyzer releases as you body is slightly leaning to the left depending on how much the legs are apart. For consistency your lower back should be slightly stiff so that it doesn't bend differently from throw to throw. This is a partial solution to releasing with consistent hyzer/anhyzer angle. Which helps with reducing variance in landing points.
bcsst26 wrote:cmlasley- I have been working on getting my hips more involved that is why I am back at throwing only from a standstill. I still have a ways to go as you can see but you saying that I need to do more is a help. Now the question is how to do this??
DGDAVE wrote:I think the biggest question is, has all the stand still work improved your golf game so far? Is your timing better?
SkaBob wrote:A few things I noticed watching this video:
1. Your arm isn't moving in a straight line. You start with it WAY out away from your body, then pull it in a straight line towards you, easily 45 degrees off the line of your shot, then just curl it around your body as you throw. You're robbing TONS of power from your throw doing this. Your reach back, and the entire forward pull are most efficient in a straight line.
2. When that angular pull towards your body gets in far enough, you slow your throw down almost to a stop and THEN begin the actual throwing motion. Stopping yourself is working against you by robbing the speed you've generated from the disc, as well as by forcing you to start your pull again mid-way through your motion, and allowing you almost no room to accellerate before the disc leaves your hand.
3. For your foot placement being fairly (but not all that) consistent, your aim (especially on the anhyzer lines) is all over the place. Go to a baseball diamond (or any sandy spot) and mark where you want to plant your feet. Work on planting them on the same spot on the sand for each of your throws, and work on making sure your discs all travel in the same direction.
4. On your anhyzer throws, you're giving the disc about twice as much nose-up as you need to in order to achieve those lines. You're air-bouncing the shot. When I throw a putter on a line like that, to get the distance you're getting, it's got WAY less angle - and most importantly it's flat to the plane of the motion I want to give it. To achieve the right angle, instead of the pull coming directly in front of me, and going parallel to the line between me and the pin, the line I actually pull on is an upward angle, moving outward at the angle I want the disc to leave at, and the disc leaves my hand much earlier. Torso position is key in this working for me. I stay turned mostly away until after the disc leaves my hand, where on a straight line by the time the disc crosses my torso, I'm 90 degrees from facing the target, and by the time it leaves my hand I'm turning most of the way towards it. With the anhyzer (especially big huge anny bombs), my torso's really only getting to the point of being 90 degrees from facing the target by the time the disc leaves my hand.
5. Weight shift. Your weight shift is happening before you stop your throw to begin the real pull after you've brought the disc in towards your body. Ideally you want it to be while you're throwing, as the pull is really getting going. I don't think you should change the timing on your plant and weight shift, I think you should work on my next point above everything else I've mentioned so far.
6. Your throw, because of that stop you're making, and because of the way you're timing things, is really two motions...I'd imagine it feels like "PULL! THROW!"....you want "PTUHRLOLW!" (lol). One motion, one movement. From the furthest back position in your reachback, to the disc already having left your hand, one motion.
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