The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Disc Artwork, Dying, Technique etc...

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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby XvileX » Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:21 am

What is the best x-acto knife to use? I remember reading something about a 360° #7, I believe? Is this correct?
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby pointdisc » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:11 pm

Not familiar with #7s, but #16 blades kick the crap out of the stock #11. As far as 360, that's all personal preference. I don't use the 360, but can't comment on others.

Also, while searching for #7s google gave me this x-acto gem.

Public Sevice Announcement: X-Acto blades be SHARP!!!



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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby pointdisc » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:05 am

ChUcK wrote:Should I dye a picture of Colonel Sanders on my Firebird?
Yes.


HA, just noticed this. Nothin better than a Kentucky Firechicken, unless it's an angry Kentucky Firechicken...

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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby Itchy » Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:44 pm

Lacquer thinner takes off foil hotstamps pretty well too. Takes extra elbow grease, but evaporates on it's own so it's not on the disc long enough to hurt it.

Ran out of transfer tape, so I tried using GLAD Press'n Seal. It worked really well. I put it over the vinyl, rubbed it with the back of a spoon, peeled off the vinyl's backing and worked it like normal.

Did we ever get a good list of plastics to dye/stay away from?
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby pointdisc » Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:17 am

Plastic list from best to worst for dyeing.

CE/Z/Champ (including Millennium Q & Discmania C)/Opto - all dyes really well. Best plastic to dye.
Candy Pro - the early "Pro" champ type stuff. Dyes the same as champ, really well
Star (including Millennium & Discmania S)/ESP (including FLX)/Goldline - again, dyes really well, but will bleed faster than the above
Pro (including Millennium M & Discmania P)- the regular pro stuff. Takes dye well, but is prone to bleeding & fading after a short period of time compared to above plastics.
KC/JK/R Pro - between regular pro and baseline. Some doesn't dye as well, prone to very quick bleeding/fading.
D/DX/baseline - typically doesn't dye well, & if dyed fades REALLY fast.


Unknown
Vibram - can't comment on it's ability to be dyed. I know it can be done, but as for fading/bleeding, I don't know.
Elite X - Haven't tried it. Would expect it to be similar to Innova's Pro.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby Itchy » Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:56 pm

Thanks pointdisc. Only thing I can add is Quest AT/Gateway Evolution Pro-Line plastic. Dyes very well but the plastic itself breaks down over time (taking your dye with it). It's like it de-laminates or something. Weird.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby josser » Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:24 pm

I died a handful of discs pink today using Booter's Petal Pink + Fuchsia formula.

Image

From left-to-right, descriptions are the original colour

Top row:
Very light pink Opto xXx;
Another very light pink Opto xXx (one of them turned out a bit more raspberry and the other a bit more pink even though they both started the same colour;
Slightly off-white Pro Wraith;
Zero-line white Pure (didn't dye too dark but gives a really nice uniform light pink).

Middle row:
CFR Glow Gazelle;
Milky white QOLF;
DX Glow Roc (didn't take very well and is not very uniform);
White SPD.

Bottom row:
White ESP Cyclone;
White SOLF.

Of the ESP/Star plastics, the Cyclone turned out the best with a nice deep pink, but it is not significantly better than the others. The colour seemed to take to the Pro Wraith just as well (but not quite as uniformly) as the ESP/Star plastics, I think it was the original slightly off-white colour of the plastic that made it a little less of a nice pink. The QOLF and Gazelle started off about the same colour and ended up roughly the same as well. I double-checked and the glow plastic of the Gazelle still glows.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby NoLifeLeft » Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:53 am

Any good tips on doing a full immersion? I was thinking points of contact between the disc and dying vessel might be an issue.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby AciDBatH666 » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:11 am

NoLifeLeft wrote:Any good tips on doing a full immersion? I was thinking points of contact between the disc and dying vessel might be an issue.


Just keep your temperature down and you'll be fine. I've done a bunch like that and as long as you're not boiling it doesn't do anything to the disc.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby Jeronimo » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:27 am

NoLifeLeft wrote:Any good tips on doing a full immersion? I was thinking points of contact between the disc and dying vessel might be an issue.


Marbles.
I am dumb.

...and a drama queen.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby NoLifeLeft » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:36 am

If that is all it takes then I'm good. I was going to do a long room temp soak with the disc resting on a few thumb tacks.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby dgdave » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:43 am

If you are gonna do a long cool, soak, just put it in a zip lock bag and toss it in the sink overnight.
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Re: The Dye FAQ needs your help, see first post.

Postby Pollution » Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:06 pm

Just one question: Do you re-use your pan? Yes, but when you clean it and then re-use it and you change colors does the previous color mix in with the new color?
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