(Almost) All Discmania

[jubuttib]

I've ordered from the States to Finland, and it usually takes a couple of weeks.

About the TDs: You will find that only the gummy S-TDs get much turn at all out of the box. The stiff ones will be much straighter on a flat throw. The stiff ones are most easily found in weights between 168-172. And usually the most understable TDs are the C-TDs from the CFR run. Those are easy to tell apart from the production run, production runs have a slanted rim and no patent number.

[MDP]

Alright...so maybe I've been thinking about the set up wrong. I'm going to try to drop TBs and run something like this:

Distance Drivers:
PD2 C-Line - 175g : Very overstable
PD2 P-Line ~ 175g : Moderately overstable/sidearm distance
DD S-Line ~ 175g : Stable/control
DD P-Line ~ 170g : Max D
DD2 P-Line - 171g : Max D

Notes:
DD2 may or may not make it in depending on how well the DD looks for the max D slot. The DD2s I've thrown have given me some great shots, but I don't think I'm throwing far enough to get those to fly consistently let.

Control Drivers:
PD C-Line ~ 175g : Overstable
PD S-Line - 175g : Slightly overstable
PD P-Line - 168g : Stable/control
TD S-Line ~ 170g : Straight-ish
TD C-Line ~ 170g : Understable

Notes:
As the PDs break in they'll move slots (S-PD to stable/control, P-PD to straight-ish), there's going to be some overlap between the P-PD and S-TD so I'll have to figure that out.

Midrange:
MD2 C-Line ~ 180g : Overstable
MD2 P-Line ~ 180g : Stable/control
MD2 P-Line ~ 170g : Straight/understable

Notes:
Hopefully one of the C-Lines I get will be overstable enough, otherwise probably throw an MD1 in there. I'll try the S-MD2 but it doesn't seem to have as good reviews. Plastics not definite here.

Putter:
P2 S-Line ~ 175g : Overstable
P2 D-Line ~ 175g : Stable/control
P1 D-Line ~ 170g : Understable
P2 D-Line ~ 170g : Dedicated putter

17 discs : 8 models

[Fightingthetide]

One thought on the PD/TD overlap - your P PD's will probably become really flippy, unless you dont hit any trees, and then become more of a very understable utility disc. When I had a beat up P PD in my bag, I used it mostly for powered down shots that needed a solid fade. It needed a really steep hyzer release on full power to keep from going to a roller. The S and C TD's will stay in the understable spot (or even the stable spot) a lot longer.

I also might not plan on getting your 170 P MD2 to turn right from a flat throw. Maybe it will, but MD2's excel at taking the angle they are released at. For instance, my 170 Opto Fuse will turn right from a flat throw and with enough height will hold that turn to the ground without rolling. I don't think an MD2 would do that, unless its thrashed, but it WILL hold an anhyzer release and land flat (if thrown right). Jubuttib would know more on this.

And if you can find a P P1, they are money in the understable putter slot.

[jubuttib]

Fightingthetide: I haven't noticed a real difference in stability between lighter and heavier MD2s, if that's what you mean. I'm sure you can beat a P-MD2 to understable, I just haven't succeeded in it yet. I haven't tried beating them in forcefully yet, and probably won't even in the future, it's much easier and effective to beat D-MD2s to understable and leave the P-Lines straight.

[jubuttib]

The P-PD2 is a strange mold (again...). The ones I've thrown have been every bit as stable as the C-PD2s, but many people have reported theirs being much less stable, more like Pro Destroyers.

[MDP]

The P-PD2 is a strange mold (again...). The ones I've thrown have been every bit as stable as the C-PD2s, but many people have reported theirs being much less stable, more like Pro Destroyers.

Mine was Destroyer-esque after some wear. I was getting some turn backhand and sidearm. Never flipped, but the turn was definitely there. In fact, I may try a lighter P-PD2 for the max D slot because I like the rim much better than the DD2.

[jubuttib]

Is yours somewhat softer feeling? Mine is pretty damn stiff Pro, though it still has the same surface texture as regular soft, bendy Pro.

As a side note (since the disc was brought up) I've been falling in love with my P-DD2s all over again. They require a good throw but I really like how they fly for me right now. Putting my thumb more forward and including the base of my thumb more in my grip has prevented slips and they've been flying very consistently in the 400+' range.

[MDP]

Is yours somewhat softer feeling? Mine is pretty damn stiff Pro, though it still has the same surface texture as regular soft, bendy Pro.

As a side note (since the disc was brought up) I've been falling in love with my P-DD2s all over again. They require a good throw but I really like how they fly for me right now. Putting my thumb more forward and including the base of my thumb more in my grip has prevented slips and they've been flying very consistently in the 400+' range.

It was maybe slightly more firm than other Pro stuff I've thrown, but I wouldn't call it stiff by any means.

My P-DD2 has given me some good throws, and I think I'll like it a lot more as I continue to repair my form. But at the moment I can't throw it consistently.

[Trey133]

The P-PD2's really get long after some break in. Unfortunately they lose HSS before LSS, if it were the other way around they'd be really really consistent.

[MDP]

Alright - ambassador package arrived and here's what I'm thinking:

Distance Drivers:
PD2 C-Line - 175g : Very overstable
PD2 P-Line - 175g (soft) : Moderately overstabley, long hyzers, sidearm
DD P-Line - 169g (domey) : Max D

Control Drivers:
PD C-Line - 171g (+mold) : Very overstable (hopefully)
PD S-Line - 175g (high PLH) : Moderately overstable
PD S-Line - 175g (high PLH) : Stable/control (beating in beautifully)
PD P-Line - 168g (soft) : Understable (beating in to roller disc ideally)
TD C-Line - 171g (+mold) : Neutral/understable
TD S-Line - 175g (gummy) : Very understable (eventually)

Midrange:
MD2 C-Line - 177g (domey) : Overstable
MD2 S-Line - 174g (swirly) : Stable/control
MD2 S-Line - 174g (gummy) : Understable (eventually)

Putters:
P2 S-Line - 172g : Overstable
P2 S-Line - 171g : Stable (eventually)
P1 P-Line - 175g : Understable (eventually)
P2 D-Line - 175g (x2) : Dedicated putters

I'm pretty excited to try this out. Probably some PD/TD overlap that may force one disc out. If the +mold C-PD isn't stable enough I'll probably pick up a new 3rd run one. Depending on how it works out two non-Discmania discs could find their way back in:
11x Champ Firebird : If the C-PD/C-PD2 combo isn't overstable enough for utility shots
DX Roc (beat to understable) : If I can't get an MD2 to work turnover/anhyzers like I want

[Fightingthetide]

MD2's will work well on anhyzers, but might not turn right from a RHBH throw like a beat-in roc or even a Fuse would. Whether or not you need a midrange to turn right like that is preference.

I wonder how long it will take for your TD's to become truly understable. I would guess it might take a long time...depending on your power level. They need around 400' of power to show high-speed turn (unless they are absolutely beat-in). From my experience, they hold an anhyzer line for a loooong time, somewhat eliminating the need of a right-turning disc. Once again, it comes down to preference - do you want your discs to do the turning, or do you want to make your discs turn?

Overall I bet you are stoked! Looks like they hooked you up well. Go get a few rounds in and let us know what you think.

[MDP]

Initial thoughts on first field session:

P2s are exactly what I wanted for putting, may have to mess with grip for drives.
MD2s go really far...
TDs are more understable for me than I was expecting, showed HS turn both upwind and downwind in S and C
C-PD+ is weird, not sure if I like it yet or not
P1s have crazy glide

[jubuttib]

MD2's will work well on anhyzers, but might not turn right from a RHBH throw like a beat-in roc or even a Fuse would. Whether or not you need a midrange to turn right like that is preference.

This is true for premiums. Try to get your hands on some D-Lines though.

I wonder how long it will take for your TD's to become truly understable. I would guess it might take a long time...depending on your power level.

My red champystar submitted after the initial wall beating and about half a season of play. It hasn't changed since though, and is by no means flippy even now. The neutral stiff one I currently have in my bag has developed some turn by now, it's been in my bag for about one season.

They need around 400' of power to show high-speed turn (unless they are absolutely beat-in).

What? No they don't. Well, the stiff neutral ones might, but any other (pretty much any C-Line, the softer S-Lines, D's...) will turn from flat with less power than 400'.

From my experience, they hold an anhyzer line for a loooong time, somewhat eliminating the need of a right-turning disc. Once again, it comes down to preference - do you want your discs to do the turning, or do you want to make your discs turn?

You want an easier to turn TD? 1. Find the nearest brick/concrete wall. 2. Throw TD against wall 3. Repeat 10 to 20 to 30 times.

Overall I bet you are stoked! Looks like they hooked you up well. Go get a few rounds in and let us know what you think.

[MDP]

Bag set up:


I'm going to take it with me to NC and see how it fares in the woods. Also going to try to pick up a 3rd run C-PD because this +mold isn't stable enough.

[jubuttib]

You'll have better luck posting an image that's address ends in a file extension.