The "Incomplete" Secret Technique

[USAnarchy]

Let's see that video Anarchy

Heh..... I need to film one outside versus the one from inside in my attic that i just view personally (lighting quality is poor, but it works for my personal view).

[Tao of Disc Golf]

I'd just like to add that these drills have worked very well for me. I recommend using a large aerobie ring for the hammer pound. It is comfortable on the fingers, and you can pivot it around with your wrist and bounce it harder and harder off of the palm side of your forearm. As Blake has mentioned, the aerobie ring also works well for teaching the timing of acceleration. I just wish it was as heavy as a golf disc, because I've found out in the past that I start trying to muscle golf discs after throwing an aerobie for a while. I've considered modifying the aerobie with lead tape, but I'm not sure how that might affect its flight.

[CreemCheese]

Well, I only read through the first couple of pages, not all 28, sorry. I read through the first post about 6 times. Practiced it a little in the house, then went out to the course. Tried just the drill a couple times on each tee pad to loosen up. When everything went the way it should the disc flew about the same distance, maybe a touch shorter, but much less effort was put into it. I only had an 08 ace race disc, not an actual driver. When i wasn't strong arming it (like I've done for 10 years) or having release issues, it would start off with a little turn then pretty much hold flat the whole flight.
Only around 220-240, but strong arming drivers I am around 250-270, and usually end up with some shoulder pain. I've only broke 300 a few times in my life, and those were "What did I just do" moments.

[colombo117]

I am stuck at the range of 350 with my teebirds. These are 10-15 feet off the ground, golf shots. I throw with a hyzer release and I pivot on my toes. When I pivot on my heel it hurts; I have a messed up ankle that I broke when I was 17 (I am 29 now). Slowing down and trying to feel the rip has helped, but I want more.


I am wondering if the pivot could be the reason for holding me back? Can I pivot on my toes and still hit 400 with my teebirds? Or do I just throw higher with anny release to achieve more?

[Timko]

Teebirds reach max D when thrown flat. I'd also consider throwing higher as well. You need about 20' to hit 400' with a Bird.

[El Presidente]

I'm confused. I also throw Teebirds 330-350. How do you throw 20 feet high while keeping the disc flat?

[Jewdy]

Here we go.....

[mark12b]

Throwing High with Nose Down
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23208

[El Presidente]

Throwing High with Nose Down
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23208

Thank you sir

[Blake_T]

I am wondering if the pivot could be the reason for holding me back? Can I pivot on my toes and still hit 400 with my teebirds? Or do I just throw higher with anny release to achieve more?

the style of pivot is never the reason for significant distance gain/loss when you are on a plateau.

the advantages of a heel pivot are only realized by those regularly breaking 450'.

breaking 400' with a teebird requires a minimum of 18' of height for a standard shot, but it can be done at about 12' of height if you manage to pull off the most difficult to consistently execute shot in disc golf.

as for teebirds being thrown flat vs. with angle, it depends if they're beat or not. teebirds that are beat to the point where you can flatten them from a hyzer will usually go a lot farther than a teebird you have to throw flat.

[JR]

I would imagine a 400' TB shot at only 18' is more difficult to pull off than at 20'+ and there is probably no margin of error with only 18' of apex. And yeah s-curving at 12' is even more difficult to not anny to ground or letting it fade out too early so that truly has no margin of error whatsoever unless you're enough of a freak to crush a brick in your hand and throw the dust 400' too So that does not apply to 99,8 % of throwers.

[niq]

Hello everyone first-time poster here,

I realize that this thread is pretty old so hopefully this is the right place for my question(s)... Additionally, i would like to apologize in advance for the long post that will precede.

I spent the last few days reading through this entire thread, and the snap 2009 thread... I have been playing disc golf for about 2.5 years and have maxed out in the 320'-350' range (i need a giant anhyzer flex w/ an overstable disc or huge hyzer flip with a wraith to get the 350 -- it's very inconsistent to say the least) but do 320' pretty consistently with a line drive. I recently saw a video on youtube of dion arlyn throwing 500'+ up that giant hill... I have been unhappy with not seeing any improvement in my drives for a while now, and seeing the video with dion was a real eye-opener. I knew i must not even have the basic fundamentals once i saw that! That's how i found this great forum! I've decided to build my drive from scratch (from the hit back!).

Anyways between everything I've read on here I feel like some things are either jumbled around in my head or some of the posts i've read kind of contradict one-another. If anyone would be kind enough to provide clarification of the following i would be eternally grateful:

1) It is my understanding that the "rip" is is what occurs as the disc is pivoting from 12 o'clock to (if you're lucky) 4-4:30 o'clock between your index finger and thumb. Is this different than the "hit"? I feel like the hit and the rip are two separate things (although they are happening within a few milliseconds of eachother), the "hit" being when your wrist begins uncoiling?

2) In regards to tendon bounce/opening of the wrist etc:
- Some posts seem to indicate that your wrist should be loose as a goose, flapping around like a broken shutter and then flapping open during the "hit". Is this what should be happening?
- Should you be trying to hold your wrist straight, but force it to closed with forward momentum and then let it flap open in the hit?
- Should you resist letting it bend in the pull, and then force your wrist open in the hit (if you were using 30% strength to "resist" the bend, increasing your strength to 100% causing the wrist to swing open even harder)? <-- this one seems the most logical to me, but i don't know anything
- Should you let it flap closed, and then force it up on the hit?
^---- sorry for so many questions but it just seems a little ambiguous...

I did some experimenting yesterday by doing some throws with my wrist semi-flexed (not flapping like a shutter, but not stiff enough to where it wouldn't bend) during my swing. For the first time ever, i could actually feel the elusive tendon bounce that some people speak of... I read in another post that maybe you're not supposed to do that, but you can use that to help you find where you should be trying to force your wrist open in the hit?

On to the hammer drill:
I did some practicing with it today, and i can effortlessly shoot my putters out to 250' and further (just standing still). I could really feel the rip (disc pivoting inside the index finger and thumb) and it felt like it was releasing somewhere in the 4-5 o'clock range. I never really felt the disc ejecting off my palm or anything though, I'll wait for clarification on my previous questions before I waste anymore lifespan on my keyboard

Thanks in advance!

[JR]

I'm not sure if the semantic definitions of rip and hit have been set in stone even on this site let alone in the rest of the disc golf community. To me rip is the moment of first separation of the disc from the fingers and hit precedes that.

There are two major snapping styles in the older version and the hyper spin. Hyper spin doesn't allow the wrist to curl left of neutral hand shaking position at all and the snap passive plus active muscle turning to the hand to the right say 10 degrees and then a steely stop of the wrist and one mother of a pinch with at least the index finger and the thumb is the way. Some clamp down with the middle finger too. Some move the wrist way less than 10 degrees right of neutral so you gotta see for yourself annually which angle gives you the best distance. Regular older snap allows the wrist to bend back despite resisting it and the snap stops at hand neutral sideways but pushed down for nose angle. No resistance to the bending back of the wrist=almost no snap.

I don't know how far back the best possible rip point is and i may never know. My anatomy differs due to injury and surgery from the rest so i can't experiment. I remember two times i've had the disc rip from 6 o'clock on a real throw a little underpowered. Very much underpowered i can hold onto the disc until it has pivoted so that it rips out at 9-10 o'clock and flies to the back and right around 5 o'clock Not too far if i don't intentionally pull the arm back.

[niq]

so if i'm resisting during the pull, i should be resisting from an open wrist and the pull forces it to neutral?

[JR]

I would not be content with that execution alone but yes that will happen automatically. I would engage the afterburner to that jet engine by also actively twitch fast (as in touching something too hot) turning the hand toward straight under conscious guidance and actively using the muscles. That is the traditional style.

Hyper spin might need more muscle tension to stop the wrist from bending back. It is probably a moving target depending on individual condition on any given time if the additional muscle effort slows the arm down more than the hyper spin adds distance. The timing of tensing the wrist and the amount of muscle tension variations should be explored to find the best D on a good day, an average day and when you're worn out. You need to account for your condition in shot planning for distance control. In worst cases of fatigue also for aiming.