Discmania S-TD Turning Driver

[Joz]

Hmm, probably a +mold, should turn for you.

are all of the C-TDs still plus mold?

Negative, Ghost Rider.

[jubuttib]

Nope, not all. And the non+ C-TD's were usually the least stable of the bunch (not counting the D-TD obviously).

[what'shisname]

I have a couple CFR TD's that do not have the + rim if anyone wants em.

[linkinparkervii]

I picked up a c-td and it was the + mold. I found it had very little turn and was pretty stable which surprised me

[jubuttib]

I picked up a c-td and it was the + mold. I found it had very little turn and was pretty stable which surprised me

TD's on the whole don't have that much turn and are pretty stable, until they're beat.

[dgdave]

Yup. The FD should be the TD and the TD should be the FD.

[zj1002]

FD should be the CD

[linkinparkervii]

Maybe they should stop calling their discs by what theyre supposed to do and just have stock names. IE jackal, psyscho, craze.... since they are usually wrong with the naming

[jubuttib]

Maybe they should stop calling their discs by what theyre supposed to do and just have stock names. IE jackal, psyscho, craze.... since they are usually wrong with the naming

I don't know, they've been pretty close actually. P1 Putter is self explanatory, P2 Pro Putter is accurate since most pros seem to like the added overstability, MD1 and MD2 are indeed mid ranges so... yeah, GM Greater Midrange fits because it is quite fast for a mid range, the original CD Control Driver was indeed a great control disc, the mold change ruined it though, PD and PD2 Power Drivers are definitely fitting, DD and DD2 Distance Drivers likewise, FD Fairway Driver fits also because it is indeed a fairway driver first and foremost despite the distance potential, and even the TD is at it's best as an understable driver, it just requires a bit of beating in (some are out of the box understable though, definitely). In the realm of understable drivers the TD though is definitely on the more stable side, but that's actually the exact reason I like it. It doesn't really like to fade much and rides the turn great, and also isn't terribly touchy so it's harder to accidentally burn and turn.

[Jewdy]

I agree with jubu. The TD has plenty of turn it just happens slowly. It has a real smooth turnover that lasts most of the flight without much fear of the accidental roller.

[Flipflat]

joes flight chart has the TD at 4.5, -2, 2, 3 and the JLS at -2, 2.5, 3 is this accurate?

[Jewdy]

For me the JLS is a slightly understable fairway driver (probably agree with joes rating). The TD has much more distance potential than the JLS. Thrown softly the ratings could be correct for the TD but it can handle more power and would be rated completely different when thrown harder. Think slightly more hss roadrunner with practically no fade.

[jubuttib]

Yep, the TD is essentially a beefy Roadrunner.

[7ontheline]

My 175 S-TD has a fair amount of turn. I really have to think clean release and extra spin. On a flat throw is goes pretty far with a decent fade. My ce jls aren't quite as touchy, so even though it takes more effort to go the same distance, they're in the bag.

I need a go far and turn right for long range shots that I can't reach with my flick, perhaps I should try the C-line TD so I can lean on it a little more... instead of practicing

What's the recommend for the C-line (+rim; production run; CFR; clear; opaque; flat; domey; other; Sidewinder)?

[jubuttib]

Both the regular ones (unless they've made new ones all of them are from the CFR run anyway, just stamped with a production stamp in some cases) and the +C-TD's are nice, and I have both in my bag. Regular C-TD's are the least stable on the whole (exceptions exists, as always) so I use them for turning shots, the higher PLH stiff S-TD's are great for straight shots while I wait for them to beat in more, and the +C-TD's are pretty much in between those two.