Discmania

[maskedavenger]

First 10ish throws with a 158g orange Blizzard C-line DD2: Just as reported. Not superflippy, but will turn big time if yanked too hard. However, even then it will fade back if there is room. It will just take a loooooong while to do that, during which it will go miles to the right.

Released on a hyzer at just under full power it will turn over nicely and controllably, and the fade kicks in fairly late, so it does indeed go far. Maybe 10-15 meters further consistently that other throws with 175g DD2's. The longest was probably 110m (~360 feet?) and for me that's pretty ok if it does it this consistently and controllably. Kind of hard to see where I would use it on the course though (long wide open holes are very sparse) but this disc is mainly for having fun on the range to be honest.

I'm sure a bigger arm would hyzerflip this thing out of the stadium. But I'm happy I got this weight. Intrigued to see what the real light weights would do, but I'm not going to spend money just to experiment. I'm also kind of bummed that such a OS mold like PD2 should be as flippy as the others have said. I was hoping for a superlight floating disc that would still be throwable. Oh well.

[JR]

Destroyer fades out very hard if it has dome like most older Destros did. It is too overstable for maximum distance for me but great for hard left finishes or high hyzers that need to move a lot to the left. One local course is 82 meters with 90 degree left 20 meter move if you throw around trees in an open area and here the hard finish from say 10+ meter apex works out nicely. Mine is 134 grammer so it gets that high nicely while still making it to the pin height or even longer. Teedevil also fades hard but at 150 it ain't as high speed stable so it could possibly work because it floats in the air better. Of course it won't in the water and that is what i guess you meant. The Teedevil 150 is not as power hungry thus uselessly overstable at your power than the Crazy overstable Destro 134. Note that i haven't thrown Bliz DD2s. I imagine that a floating weight=under 140 gram Teedevil would be better for you than a 150. Katana would be longer but man they get flippy under 150 for me and i can't deduce our power difference reliably based on your DD2 Bliz distance. Regular DD2s vary hugely in distance based on the plastic and wear. P is way longer than ES. So i can't say if a Katana would be too flippy at a certain weight. I imagine a 150 should be golfable and lighter ones fun on an open space. It depends on the cleanliness of form much too so it is impossible to give specific recommendations accurately. Katana holds an advantage at your distances over the Teedevil, Boss and Destroyer in having less fade. The slower Wraith in lighter weights may also suit you better than than the rest besides the Katana.

[maskedavenger]

So, wait- which is flippier, Wraith or Katana? I might give either a try just for bombing purposes where accuracy is left out of the equation.

I might also try a P-line DD2, around 170grams. (or a hair less?) It would be good to have a all-out distance driver in the bag for wide open holes, no matter how seldom you run into one. Today they had a distance comp after a local game and my longest was probably 172g worn out S-PD (maybe 105m or so). Not a distance line, just huge runup and rip like hell. Just straight and not very high. Also there was no wind, or a light tailwind.

ps. the thing is purrrrrty. Somehow I dislike the Innova Blizzards looks and havent seen too many great colours beside the crazy luminous pink.

[JR]

My 138 Boss (unthrown now) is like scarface or the face of the moon. Craters from the bubbles and lines from cool material stretched and not totally filling the mold. Surface defects nothing deeper. I'm sure if someone tried to act like an ass they might question the competition eligibility of such discs.

Weight for weight both Katana and Wraith are super flippy at 130s for a 120+ meter thrower (sea level line drive). So at 150 they may be suitable at your distance because they start their fade later than the DD2. Especially a new echo S-Line. A broken in (takes only a few weeks for a 120 meter thrower) 170 P DD2 flips and still fades out too early for maximum distance. My record radar throw measured 2 meters from the throw was 94 KPH and separately measured slo mo camera result was 20 revs per second with a different disc. 20 revs per second for a 175 Xcaliber. As a reference Avery Jenkins has thrown 255 meters in practice at Primm, Nevada 900 meters above sea level with thermals lifting the disc and with the desert winds pushing the disc. Throwing my Xcaliber he got 19.7 revs per second throwing to 150+ meters. In an interview he said he does sometimes try to spin the disc extra fast on approaches but not on drives. I lack wrist stopping power so my spin rate is compromised. I call it myth confirmed that Avery with his assuredly higher exit speed getting the same revs as me with busted arm limiting spin rate reaching the same spin rate means that Avery does indeed not maximize his spin potential each time throwing to 150 meters or a little more each time.

With that background in mind i think that my lack of spin to keep a broken in P DD2 170 in the air to fly as far as a King VIP 167 high PLH, Nuke ESP 163 and the farther than those two flying Boss 155 means that most likely you would throw farther with a lighter than 150 Katana and Wraith than a 150 and the Bliz DD2 might just work but a 170 P DD2 should be way too much for you. Thus too short so i recommend not buying it and saving your money. I get 10 m more with line drives from PDs than you and the PD gains much more distance from s-curves. Thus a 168 S PD s-curved has thrown 120 meters for me without wind.

Considering the hope for floating in the water requirement with long distance=keeps being turned over and not fading out too much at your distance the discs i imagine would suite you are: Boss sub 140 weight, Wraith 138 (keep in mind that Innova often messes up with weight measurements by two or more grams even a these low weights and some report that even 140 sinks) may work for golf courses. Discs that are too unreliable for golf course usage but could work for open fields are 138 Katana and as low a weight as you can find in the Wraith. For hard left finishes sub 140 Destro works. For fairly hard left finish without floating Teedevil could work and possibly even in 138 too. I can't predict if it is golfable or open area max D disc for you though.

[Thunderchumpy]

Just got my S-line PD in the mail. I'm still a noob I guess, been playing about a year. Why doesn't everyone have one in their bag? This disc rocks the shit. It kicked my striker out of the bag.

[Joz]

Welcome!

[jubuttib]

Just got my S-line PD in the mail. I'm still a noob I guess, been playing about a year. Why doesn't everyone have one in their bag? This disc rocks the shit. It kicked my striker out of the bag.

Noticed you also liking the SOLF in the Mill thread, which to a great extent flies just like the S-PD.

The reason why everyone doesn't have one or four of them in their bags is simple: Most people have never seen nor heard of either Millennium nor Discmania. That's about it.

[bmc89]

Has anyone tried a C-line TD+ Mold? I was offered a lightly used one for $10 (seriously looks about brand new, can't see any scuffs or dings) and was trying to figure out if it was a worthwhile disc. From my understanding the +molds give you a thicker grip and slightly less fade? Does it make that much difference on TD? Any help would be appreciated.

[JR]

I don't know about TD+ but often times + adds to the fade increasing LSS. Have you felt + molds before? The grip feels thinner than the non plus version of the same disc. + makes slipping easier.

[bmc89]

I haven't felt them before, I'll prolly try to hit the local shop and feel a couple other + molds before deciding whether or not to buy this one. Thanks.

[jubuttib]

I don't know about TD+ but often times + adds to the fade increasing LSS. Have you felt + molds before? The grip feels thinner than the non plus version of the same disc. + makes slipping easier.

Funny, considering Dave D. has gone on record saying that having a beefier feeling grip with the same rim width was one of the points of the +mold from the start. =)

[JR]

Yup. Weird huh? If you think of the +configuration it is just like a normal disc with some plastic shaved off. How can that be thicker or beefier? Not to mention the slant making slips easier.

[jubuttib]

Yup. Weird huh? If you think of the +configuration it is just like a normal disc with some plastic shaved off. How can that be thicker or beefier? Not to mention the slant making slips easier.

No it's not. It's a normal disc with plastic added on to form the slant. The +mold core piece is the one that does the work, and it needs to be thinner on the top (where rim meets flight plate) than the normal core piece to achieve it. If you did it the other way you'd have to change the wing bottom piece too.

[inthedrift]

+ mold Rocs feel way beefier in the rim than non + Rocs. I'd throw Rocs again but I'm not a fan of where they've gone recently, particularly the DX ones.

[JR]

To me they feel actually less beefy thanks to the slant making the fingers slide off early in the throw. The feel during the throw is what counts. And being able to hold on to the disc.