My 174 Z-Wasp

[CincyKeith]

Let me start by saying that your website has imensely (sp?) helped my choices for new purchases and more importantly, my overall game. Your information on putting has brought my game to a more satisfactory level.

However, I have been having problems with this new midrange that I purchased last week. It's a 174 Tie-dye Z-wasp. The top is flat as a board, so I expected an overstable result (since I have thrown domey z-wasps before). Anyways, while I was practicing in a field with it, it was as overstable as my champion firebird, immediately fading as it left my hand . Even with an anhyzer release, it was turning too fast. So I took your suggestion from the PDGA website informing me to wrap it in a towel and beating it against a tree. I only hit it against a tree a few times. But now, it is more understable than my beat to hell classic roc . I've tried restoring the shape and bending up the nose and it still looks like the day I bought it.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help blake, and keep up the good work on your site!

[Blake_T]

thanks for the comments on the site.

hrm, as for a z wasp... i only throw dx/d style midranges as they are willing to unbend after their structural rigidity has been violated. i know that if you were to beat up a pro/x plastic disc using the tree method it would probably be ruined and warped beyond repair.

when you hit it against a tree did you deform it badly?

have you tried throwing it hyzer? if so, does it flatten up and ride stable?

something that i have typed many times but may or may not have been listed on the particular pdga thread is that i throw 80-90% of my shots with a hyzer release angle. to me, a roc that is released with 40 degrees of hyzer and flattens up to level and rides straight is money. to many players, they are not accustomed to this style, but it is the straightest possible throw, especially with midrange/approach discs.

[CincyKeith]

I am familiar with your style of release angle, as I also have rocs that do the same thing. I usually stick to DX plastic for midrange with only two exceptions. I have a max weight KC Pro Roc which is stable when thrown flat, and of course this wasp. I wanted something that was similar to a champion roc and everyone said "Get a Z-Wasp". I wanted something that I could throw flat, have it stay straight for 85% of it's flight and fade out predictably.

When I was hitting it against the tree, there was no noticable deformation. A minor scratch here or there but that was it. Still flat as a board.

It has a rather nice flight when thrown with a hyzer release, but it won't replace the disc I have in my bag that already does this. Especially since this thing flips like a sidewinder into even a slight headwind, reguardless of how much hyzer release i give it. Oh well, back to my rocs. I just hate having to replace my "overstable" roc every 6 months.

[Blake_T]

ah, then i am unsure. i do not have a lot of experience with the z wasp.

btw, imo, 6 months for a $9 disc in a sport that's free to play isn't all that bad

[TexasOutlaw]

ah, then i am unsure. i do not have a lot of experience with the z wasp.

btw, imo, 6 months for a $9 disc in a sport that's free to play isn't all that bad

Some of us probably hit more trees than you do, though
For me it's more like 2-3 months (of course I hit every tree on the course on some that aren't).

I am loving my x plastic, but still pull out a z disc when I know there will be tree love.

[Blake_T]

i hit quite a few trees...

but
1) i rarely try to overthrow/throw too hard, especially when facing a tight gap where there is risk of hitting stuff. my concern is always to miss stuff early and if i do hit stuff, hit it late. if i am throwing hard, i am generally trying to throw OVER the said obstacle.

2) 85% of my bag is DX/D/S. as a result, i generally carry 2-4 of the same disc. when each disc only sees 3-5 throws per round, they age a lot slower than if i were throwing one disc on every hole.

3) i throw mostly hyzers so the majority of my throws that hit trees generally happen late when the disc is fading and flying slow or because of the disc angle they are more apt to riccochet than hit dead and stop.

4) i've learned to love the flight of broken in discs. they fly farther, straighter, and fade later in their flights. when i slam a tree hard with a brand new disc i usually say "yay."

[TexasOutlaw]

i hit quite a few trees...

but
1) i rarely try to overthrow/throw too hard, especially when facing a tight gap where there is risk of hitting stuff. my concern is always to miss stuff early and if i do hit stuff, hit it late. if i am throwing hard, i am generally trying to throw OVER the said obstacle.

2) 85% of my bag is DX/D/S. as a result, i generally carry 2-4 of the same disc. when each disc only sees 3-5 throws per round, they age a lot slower than if i were throwing one disc on every hole.

3) i throw mostly hyzers so the majority of my throws that hit trees generally happen late when the disc is fading and flying slow or because of the disc angle they are more apt to riccochet than hit dead and stop.

4) i've learned to love the flight of broken in discs. they fly farther, straighter, and fade later in their flights. when i slam a tree hard with a brand new disc i usually say "yay."

I've gone to more x plastic lately. It still beats in nicely, has good grip, and lasts a bit longer than d plastic. I guess I'm on the right track. I alternate my x avengers. I actually was gonna respond to something you suggested earlier, which I need to try. That is to not over throw on tight courses. I think that's my problem. I know I knocked the heck out of a new disc and chipped off a large chunk. My first run avenger has gaps missing from the rim too, I haven't taken sand paper to it: that will be my next step. I have the magazine with your article on playing tight courses, and I will keep re-reading...